Outlandr
Musings from an outlander residing in Italy!

Martha Stewart Would Be Pleased! Or Glomorous Gift Giving, Italian Style

5:18 AM

This post was suppose to be about window treatments as a follow up to my description of Taparelli, but since it's Christmas and wonderfuly wrapped presents like these start showing up from friends and family, I thought I muse a bit about fabulous wrappings instead.

Italy is known the world over for it's class and sophistication, but when Christmas rolls around you really get  chance to see and appreciate it! Streets take on the warm glow of artfully placed lights and displays and once gifts are purchased, again by default, (so many things here are just standard!) every store where you shop will offer you the option to have your gifts wrapped. And boy, do the know how to wrap em, Martha Stewart would be pleased!


On this gift the paper used is not really "paper" but is a cross between paper and cloth, almost a handmade paper which makes it strong and difficult to tear yet still useable to create curled ribbon accents. Large wooden buttons, trim and gold frosted scatted leaves finish the look of the package. Presents end up looking sophisticated, unique and exciting, ready to pass on to that special someone. I think the most impressive thing about these wrappings in general, is the use of what I think of as "gut feeling artistry" a kind of built in intuitive design. Accents are inventive and randomly placed versus a rhyme or reason, aside (I feel like Americans think more in a "linear" more precise kind of way for example.) from an obvious use of color coordination. All this being said though, it is difficult here to go out and find your own unique paper and as a matter of fact would probably require a specialty store to score it in, a pain if you'd like to try a hand at DIY classy wrap design, but which during the Christmas season in the US, you can readily find in just about any where.

Still it's Christmas time and the moment someone hands you a gift wrapped with creativity like this, you feel a deep appreciation for calling this place home not only during the holiday season, but all year round. Italians do Christmas, like just about everything else, with style. This sense of style reflected in everything from clothing to cars, is the reason all the world is nuts about Italy and why after visiting Italy, you secretly hope that some of that style, rubs off on you!

Buon Natalie Everybody!



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The Details of Living As An Ourlander! Window Treatments, Part 1

2:54 AM






A rather mundane looking picture, but I'm all about the details and this photo really illustrates what I'm trying to describe to you my fellow future traveler! In Northern Italy, (because I'm not sure about the South,) most of the buildings have this type of window shutter by default. They are called Tapparelle and basically they reside inside the walls and are raised or lowered with a rubber rope for want of a better word. They are heavy and extremely sturdy, you need some muscle to use them. When I first arrived in Italy I hated these things because when they are lowered the outside of the buildings really look like nothing, or in short, just plain ugly.


But over time I really began to appreciate the usefulness of the Tapparelle. In the winter they all but shut out the cold. As you can see they form a pretty tight seal around the doors and windows. (This one is not lowered all the way.) In the summer they serve the same function in reverse; they cut down the heat inside.

They can also look very romantic. If you don't extend them down to the ground or floor the slats stay about a half an inch apart, insuring privacy but also letting out the soft glow from your lamps. From the outside it looks as though you have blinds, but more awesome blinds than usual.

So I've come to love them now and will miss them deeply when we leave, yes I'm afraid we've thrown in the towel, mostly due to the economy here at the moment, that is making it impossible to work. But more on that later...
In the end, these awful looking shutters have become a great source of comfort for me. When the wind howls, it actually sounds like it is howling outside of my home, in back of the shutters instead of whistling though, This of course adds to the feeling of coziness and safety inside my apartment, (nothing can get in!) and warm too, as a bonus!





Here's another photo from the inside. Although they build the Tapparelle into the walls for the outside of the window, it is traditional on the inside to have some type of window treatments or curtains. Here in my living room, you see the window Tapparella about a quarter of the way down, and of course the one in the door is closed completely..

Practically zombie proof!
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Rarest On Earth? Guess Where?

8:00 AM

In our meanderings, we came across a church in Cap Ferrat, France. We had to stop after having glimpsed this enormous statue next to it in the distance while driving up a windy road. It's just incredible! Next to the stature is my son, who is staring up at it. You can see the height by using him as a comparison!


As all art European, the detail is just stunning but it was the sheer size of it that left us in awe!
The statue is of the Madonna and Child and is located inside of St. Hospice. We stepped inside the church next to it to see if we could learn about this super-sized icon and heard several voices chanting in unison. Not wanting to intrude, (actually it was more like the chant reminded us vaguely of a horror film where things escalate very quickly when there's chanting involved...) so we quickly left.


We'd originally come to visit Eze, a small medieval town that is now home to many artisans. Being December however, most of the artisans were gone, closed down for the season.
Sigh..


But we weren't disappointed because we discovered something we'd never expected or even guessed we'd find in France; a large garden, a garden dedicated only to cactus!
This garden houses some of the rarest cacti on earth. It was such a treat to explore! Little pathways circle up and up until you finally reach the top where you can look down at not only all the cactus plants, but the entire sea view and local areas. (On a clear day, you can see all the way to Nice!)

All in all it was a nice little day trip, and thanks to the season very quiet, no crowds to fight.

It costs €3.00 to get into the cactus museum, which is worth it just for the majestic photos you'll take.

Eze is just outside of Monaco. Above it actually, very easy to find on your map

The statue is located on Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. Here are the directions from the Wiki, as we stumbled upon the lovely lady and her child by accident!

On Cap Ferrat, just behind the town, go right up the lane from La Madone. At the end, turn right and follow the road up to the chapel.
Here's the link for the Wiki on Cap Ferrat.

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Bonsai, The Universe Explained!

8:00 AM





If you are crazy about Bonsai, this is the place for you!

Located just outside of Bussana Vechia, the International Artists Village salvaged from an village destroyed in an earthquake, is this huge warehouse simply called as far as I can tell, "Bonsai." Here they've created bonsai with what seems like every plant known to man and each and every one of these miniature landscapes are exquisite! I read that they have over 10 thousand different bonsai plants and I believe that number is accurate. As an eye witness, I can say for a fact that this warehouse stretches forever, seemingly without end. The place, with bonsai after bonsai,  is absolutely stunning and of course I had to tell you about it, even their site is striking! Bonsai (the entire store) will take your breathe away and stop your heart with it's beauty. You stroll along the isle, stopping at each plant along the way to take in it's uniqueness. Each bonsai evokes it's own mini universal story, complete with past and present, and you get lost inside it's tale. Be prepared to spend a LOT of time there, imagining each small bonsai world in detail.
I can't say enough about this place. Just go, it's well worth the trip!

Here is their webpage:
Bonsai Center Of Valter Frediani


Here is the contact information. I'm sure since Bussana itself is a major tourist destination, they will speak some English. Bussana is located just outside of San Remo, Italy.

Bonsai Valter Frediani
Road Bussana, 102-18038 BUSSANA SAN REMO - LOCATION BUSSANA OLD - Liguria - ITALY
Tel: +39 0184510638 - Fax +39 1782235297 - Mobile: +39 3383069462 - frediani.bonsai @ tiscali.it - www.fredianibonsai.it

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THE TUNNEL STORY, 15 Minutes To Green

12:47 PM




Head In Hands, biker enjoys 15 minutes of pure waiting misery at the Col De Tende Tunnel, France

To get across the border from Italy to France or vice versa, there is a quick little mountain pass that leads up to a 3 mile tunnel inside of the mountain. It is called the Col De Tende on the French side and the Colle Di Tenda on the Italian side. The whole experience of driving through this pass and the 3 mile tunnel that separates the two countries, is unique, each side offering it's own form of entertainment. But it also offers a common frustration as well, a 15 minute long wait.

On the French side, pictured above, there is a station that appears to hold round the clock, fire "type" men, who live there. If you suddenly find yourself in trouble, there's instant help available which is a comfort on those cold dark nights at the top of this high pass in the Alps. But the unique attraction at the entrance to this tunnel happens after dark. If you find yourself traveling up through this pass after the sun sets, be sure and bring some food. As you sit in your car waiting for the light to change you'll be greeted by a skulk of foxes. That's right, very cute, very cuddly and very clever foxes will suddenly appear and sit by the side of your car where they will wait patiently for you to well.., feed them.

Being particularly smart, these little guys have us all figured out, wait at the light looking adorable and of course hungry and eventually one of the humans will feed you. 

The small animals roam freely between car and truck and pose for photos while showing absolutely no fear of the people making baby noises at them and snapping photos. When the light changes, they run to the side of the road, sit down, (and I mean literally sit down, I've seen em!)  and wait again for the next red light and a new batch of travelers. It is very charming, and makes that 15 minutes seem to almost fly by..,  
well.., for them..

Despairing driver enjoys 15 minutes of pure waiting misery at the Colle Di Tenda Tunnel, Italy


On the Italian side, they offer a helipad, although I've never actually seen a helicopter there, still, it's great if you need a quick medical emergency exit and there is of course, a bar where you can drink your Italian espresso and chat with fellow travelers while waiting for that 15 minute light to change to green, damn. 
The charm here is in the food, espresso and the words of interesting people. Sip your cafe while checking out the uber fantastic motor bikes parked along side the road. The bar, a cozy little place that sits on the edge of the roadway, (it's almost at the top of the alps, so the bar literally sits on a precipice.) offers every necessity from warmth in the winter, to ice cream when it's hot.

So there you have it, entertainment on both sides. Which makes this adventure kind of cool, except that it's forced upon you..,

for 15 minutes!

Why is there a wait? I have no clue! When I used to come through here 14 years ago or more, they not only stamped your passport to cross between countries, (back than we actually had bragging rights thanks to country stamps in our passports.) but the the tunnel itself, had two lanes, so there was no wait aside from the guard stamping your passport, which never took 15 minutes. 
I heard they were going to build a new road and a new tunnel, which is why they cut it down to one lane and installed a couple of lights at each end, but I've seen no sign of that new road or of, you know, actual construction.

Oh and did I mention, that this pass closes down? Sometimes, when it's not even snowing, meaning it closes for no apparent reason. Also, heads up, be careful of late night travel through this pass because many times they decide to shut the tunnel itself down at 10:00 PM. Why? Maybe., zombies?

Anyway, it's Europe, so you gotta love it. Grit your teeth and enjoy that hot chocolate, or feed the foxes and WAIT. I'm sure there's a game on your phone if the foxes don't show and the bar is closed for.., well it's Italy, it might just be closed. Anyway, you'll have lots of time to "level up" your game or get up close and personal with your iPhone. 
They say patience is a virtue and you'll learn to be patient as a fox, although the motorcyclist above, just about ran out of his, on this charming high mountain pass!

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Oh The Weather Inside Is Frightful...WHA?!

4:07 AM
 

Noooooo! It's HERE AGAIN!

Although the snow brings it's tranquility of silent beauty to lay across the land while decorating the Alps in fluffy fantasy. I can't help but dread it.
Because it also brings the bitter cold. Jack Frost lives not only outside, but also inside my house.
We spent our last winter here with hot water bottles, (that sometimes break open in your bed in the middle of the night..sigh) wearing bulky sweaters, hats, arm warmers, leg warmers and stockings under our pants. All of these things worn of course when we step outside the door, but also inside our home, while eating dinner, watching TV etc. Last winter there were many nights when I just slept in my clothes I was so cold!

If your home is larger than say, a studio, 300-450 square feet, it's going to be COLD inside of it. Fuel costs are outrageously high and it is impossible to heat your entire space to comfortable temperatures.
Cozy warm homes are few and far between, and seem to be the luxury of wealthy people, the exception rather than the rule for the average person. And it is not just houses, it's car dealerships, warehouses, supermarkets, all larger buildings are under heated, and generally have no built in heating system at all! It is quite common to see car salesmen wearing their parkas and scarves, inside the building. You won't see people lingering in shops, warm escapes to spend an afternoon in. Even the malls are open. The leisurely shopping experience doesn't exist and in general, the population spends a great deal of time fighting the flu.

Fireplaces are a necessity here but not many places come equipped with them, which leaves me puzzled as to Italy's architectural history, why aren't there fireplaces or wood stoves in every abode since heating costs seem to have always been a problem?

Now I shouldn't include all of Italy here because it seems as if my town has a unique history; it was burned to the ground 3 times by the Nazi's. Most if not all of the building's are new, created just after the second world war. Perhaps winters were milder then and homes did not require wood stoves or fireplaces, so they were not included in new structural designs. Nevertheless, you would think at this point you'd begin to see built in non gas/electric heating in apartments and houses. Also, a warm place is enticing. If I have to spend an afternoon in a store because it is warmer there than own my house, (insert swear words) chances are I will buy something from said store too.

Forgive me for sounding a bit ignorant and I'm sure I sound awfully American, but damn, and not so grateful to live in Italy when winter comes and

it's HERE AGAIN.

Those winter blues, and they're bitter cold,

The thought of spending it freezing once more forces me to become irrational and throw my annual tantrum which of course I had to share with you!

Cuneo 2011



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I Found Some Poo But Preferred Some Shoes!

8:00 AM


Not only have I been back in the schools sharing English conversation with American Indian Study Workshops, but I also have returning little private groups of students also in fall when school starts. These think up think of silly things to do, make movies pretending we're famous celebrities being interviewed, document the things we'd like to do in the future and in general, we create fun projects that force us to use English, practice English, listen to English for understanding, and pronounce words in English while learning lots of new vocabulary, so that we can be understood. I always let the students decide the project...except..,

This time I have one little group of three girls who want to recreate a film, from a YouTube video that is a bit well...,
disgusting!

The dilemma? I really want them to create and use English using things that make them excited and help them forget that they are actually speaking, Any language is easier once you forget you are trying to speak it and just speak it, mistakes regardless..

But, like eewwww!

For some reason the kids are nuts for this video called; I Found Some Poo, currently all the rage. They've decided to make poo from mashed potatoes and brown food coloring, recruited another person to play the part of the dad, (all he has to say  in English is, "WHAT?" so he's off the hook) and imagined various ways to copy this video and it's scenes in real life all except for the very end, where the little girl who likes poo ends up in the insane asylum.., (well of course she does, naturally, makes sense to me..,)  they are not sure how to fake the white room and neither am I.. yet.

Now I'm thinking about suggesting that instead of poo, they substitute SHOES, because well, every female loves shoes and can often be seen going crazy for them, (I've lost my mind for a shoe or two!) and they are a lot less disgusting. (Okay, maybe their cost can be a bit disgusting) But it seems like these future film producers have their hearts set on recreating this particular video and might be offended if I seem completely grossed out.

Well, watch the video, you decide, even for the sake of English, should I let, even help them make this video?


I Found Some Poo


Here's my English Conversation blog, it's called Silly Fish. You can see some of the projects we've been up to there. Eventually the new POO video will end up there too.., sigh.

http://sillyfish.posterous.com/
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The Phantom Of The Opera Took Place In Avignon!

1:54 AM


I seem to spend a lot of time in France. Of course I care deeply about my currant country, but in Italy right now.. there is an atmosphere of.., well it is difficult to define. Some might call it almost a police state depending upon where you call home. Carabineri (police) sit in at least one roundabout in every town, especially on sunny days, stopping people arbitrarily. There are stories of raids and resulting suicides, justice undone. Add to that austerity that results in high employment, factory closings, store closings, rioting and hunger and at this moment pervasive feelings of sadness. No one smiles anymore and everywhere you see thoughtful or outright worried expressions on harried faces. It is not the Italy I know, even in the North, normally one of the richest regions, where unemployment has become especially high!
There are just moments when one must leave it all behind to preserve sanity. So when I get in my car and drive over the Alps, and I cross that border into France, I escape, instantly feeling my tension wash away.

There is sense of freedom in France that I don't feel here in Italy right now. A sense of optimism exists around me as I drive through the various small cities and towns along the way. Streets and stores are packed with people in city centers and I see bags and boxes, people are actually buying things. From the outside it is difficult to even believe that there is a crisis. (Crisis? What crisis?)
Also the system in France in general seems more familiar to me, more American almost, than that of Italy. I bet the French would hate that I say that, ha! Scooters zip by, hot boxes strapped to the back containing Sushi or pizzas, delivery for hungry apartment dwellers. Supermarkets are big and plentifully full of stuff from around the world, versus the 2 or 3 brand options I get in Italy. Fast food can be ordered by computer and is..., fast, there's even a Kentucky Fried Chicken! I don't eat it but I miss having the choice of not to eat it!
The internet seems speedier and technology more available. In general.., France is progressive, more and more rewarding of innovation than the Italian system is for now.
So I am always really happy and excited to go see my sister and my nieces who has lived in Avignon for 23 years, and let go of some of the heavy feeling of living in Italy, seriously though, any excuse is reason enough!
If you know Avignon at all you've heard that it has the Palais Des Papes where the popes hung out. There is the bridge and the castle of course and the walls that surround and enclose it. My sister lives within the castle walls of this Medieval village. The city is very romantic, very Phantom of The Opera-ish. I love it and have to stand at her big picture windows gazing out over the rooftops while singing all the songs from the musical..
I didn't say she was happy to see me..
This is a photo of her living room, the windows are behind me. I think even her living room is one of romance!
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Out Mushroom Hunting......

8:30 AM

Do you know how many people die every year from eating mushrooms? I can't imagine eating anything I wasn't absolutely positive that I knew what it was! But here it happens. Many people don't make it through the season because they don't know which mushrooms are actually edible. What's worse, supermarkets can unknowingly buy mushrooms from these same people. This year a whole family was wiped out after buying Porchini mushrooms and eating them in a sauce, mushrooms they'd bought from a supermarket.
But up here in our little region we know our fungi.

As a matter of fact we've got it down to a science!

My mother-in-law can tell you not only which mushrooms you can eat, but depending on the color of this correct mushroom, it's softness or hardness, she'll also tell you what recipe to use it in. Even more wondrous, she can even tell you what type of tree it grew under!
Mushroom season was about a month ago here, September, October, depending on weather. They grow in the Alps and it is a regional pastime to find them. Armed with walking sticks, paper and cloth bags, (you can't use plastic as you will be fined on fear of littering..sigh..) you will see entire families scouring the countryside in search of these delicious funny looking delights. There are several different kinds they try to find here but Porchini is the most popular. In our household we know them well too so my son went this year to try his luck. Find them he did! He brought back so many of them we ended up;
drying them in the oven at low temperature,
cutting them up into little squares and freezing them,
including them in homemade pasta sauce, eating said sauce and than freezing the rest for the winter!
Giving them to friends and family who didn't have the time to go or couldn't go for themselves.

All in all there's something pretty fantastic about gathering wild things you find yourself and then preparing them into some exquisite dish, or storing them for future use. Mushrooms aren't the only wild things Italians here in the North gather, all summer long it's one yummy vegetable or treat after another. Now here's a little secret, first make absolutely sure you know exactly what the mushroom is that you are looking for. (Porchini) The first time my husband insisted on eating the mushrooms he'd picked up, I was frightened to death being well..me.. and having no idea about wild things in general. I watched nervously as he ate them in a sauce I'd prepared, expecting him to get violently ill and keel over, but he lived, I believed after that, and thus began our yearly mushroom hunting adventures.
Now I'll tell you where to find them in the states.
In the state of Colorado above Colorado Springs, you can find Porchini mushrooms in the mountains above 10,000 feet. Yup it's true, we used to do it every fall right before the leaves change color and usually we were the only ones looking for them as not many people know. Their smell is a bit different, and their taste is not as strong as the ones you find here in Northern Italy, but they are still very good. Use them in your pasta sauces, even ready made, they add a great taste and you'll have a pretty cool feeling of personal fungi accomplishment!



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The Queen Of Italy

1:33 PM

This is Margherita of Savoy, first queen of Italy. She was passionate about the arts and benefactor to many charities. She founded Società del Quartetto  and the Casa di Dante. She sounds like she was a very cool lady, but I must confess, I really like and feel more for her statue than the lady herself!
Located in Liguria, Italy along the coast, her statue sits regally, welcoming you into a fantasy garden that sits on a hill overlooking the sea. The white stone contrasts sharply with the green of the garden in summer and is the first thing your eyes lock on when you round the curve of the road. Statues always make me wonder, but this one in particular captures my imagination as this one in particular represents a woman who had weight and importance in a primarily male dominated society, so much so in fact.., that she has a statue!
Of course the statue is not the only reason to drive the coast..,


The other reason? Bordighera, right up the road! This stunning beach resort makes the trip worth it all by itself.






I think of Bordighera as a resort, but it's actually a town, although I've never actually walked into the town, (It's right behind the buildings!) content to hang out on this boardwalk! But the beachfront as you can see, is so amazing, it becomes the main event.




It's cute little restaurants and shops waterside just make for a very relaxing day, or week if you can afford it, and now perhaps you can because prices have dramatically dropped. If you look at the second photo, you'll see a glaring lack of people. In the height of summer and the tourist season, Bordighera is deserted. Which makes sense for the Italian people thanks to the recession, but what about the foreign tourists? Where are they?
The tourist season was inexplicably terrible this summer. But I have my own suspicions. After seeing the raids, made famous in news reports, and the police stopping Italians to search for evidence of hidden taxes, I think it's just plain put people off. Who wants to vacation in an absolute atmosphere of hostility?  I personally now have more photos taken in France than I do in Italy, because once I cross the border I feel..well..free. Don't get me wrong, I pay my taxes, but to constantly be stopped, sometimes 3 times a week, just makes me dread getting into my car and puts a damper on my Italian exploration, considering I don't even own a boat or a Ferrari. The average person has just stopped spending on anything that might be considered luxurious to avoid drawing attention.The war on taxes trickled down to us normal Jo's, the little guys who never avoided a tax in their lives. As austerity wipes out incomes, the government struggles to find even the smallest amount to add to their coffers. Do I sound a bit bitter? Better stop while I'm ahead!

Nevertheless, all it's political troubles can't take away Italy's extraordinary uniqueness, there is no place like it on earth and I am very lucky to share it's good times as well as bad.

In case you missed all the excitement.

http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1078504_italians-shed-supercars-as-tax-raids-austerity-measures-continue

http://www.cnbc.com/id/48739278/Yachts_Raided_by_Tax_Authorities_in_Italy

http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2012/06/17/debt-most-deadly-recession-and-austerity-fuel-suicide-in-italy.html




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The Benefit Of Doing Nothing..

6:19 AM

You know what's really neat about Italian or even European holidays?

They really really know how to relax. I mean how many Americans really know how to let go, put their feet up, and do nothing?
This summer I was fortunate enough to be invited along for an Italian style vacation on the beaches just outside of San Remo, (a city I really dislike.) solely because my native tongue was English. We decided to make this trip by bike to avoid the incredible traffic congestion that normally makes this city undoable. I was to go along to just speak to my friends and their kids in my own language so that they could become a little bit "immersed" into English while still physically being in Italy.
Well the vacation was fantastic but not at first,  I was antsy and fidgety because I realized a day into my vacation, I didn't know how to do nothing. 
Nothing consisted of going by bike to and paying for (€6.00-€18.00 depending upon the season) these little cabanas (pictured above,) complete with a couple of seats, and a little umbrella, our personal piece of private beach for the day. Yea! Stripping down to bathing suits, slathering on sunscreen and running into the ocean. Running back out of the ocean to our cabana, slathering on more sunscreen, than sleeping in the sun, of course. A little discussing.., this and that but nothing really important as well as taking long walks along the beach. Reading frivolous stories and of course eating, lunch and dinner. Now this was my previous definition of literally doing nothing, nothing being a thing that was non productive, a textbook example of accomplishing zip, zero, nada. In reality we did quite a lot. But this busy idea of nothingness was still hard for me to just let happen. I couldn't resolve the idea that I wasn't achieving something in some way. No concrete action, no concrete result, plus no computers, not even a pen and notebook! It was difficult for me to even just let go and stop thinking, much less planning and doing. Eventually I got into the swing of things, though (the fact that the people around me were also doing "nothing" sans computers and even.. gasp.., cell phones, really helped me to finally give in and get with the program.) and by the time I returned home, I felt renewed and fortified.
While the rest of us gaze longingly while judging negatively the Italian insistence on their "luxurious" vacations, I submit that there's something to be learned from them. First, these vacations are not really a luxury, they are instead a necessity. Second it is possible to spend very little for this luxury vacation experience of nothingness, with a bit of planning. Our actual vacation; traveling by bike, staying at a friends house and doing our own cooking was very inexpensive. And finally I think that in the end the Italians remember what most Americans have forgotten; to do nothing once in awhile and rest the mind and body actually heals us in mind and spirit, making us more productive people, in our job, for our families, in our lives,
long after the vacation is over.
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Flea Markets, Italian Style!

2:29 AM

One of my most favorite things to do, in any country is to search for treasure in the local flea markets! I peer and poke, dig through piles and explore niches looking to find...


well I'm not sure, just an object that grabs me, perhaps reminds me of a distant time and place, or maybe something of value buried and long forgotten to be discovered by me. Or maybe it's a copy of something I cherished from childhood. This flea market or should I say house market,  is located on the road to Limone the poshest ski resort of the Alps on the shortcut from Cuneo to Nice. It stands alone, and seems lonely, being store nor home nearby. You can easily pass it in a moment of indecision as you fly along your way to the top of the Alps, should I, shouldn't I? But it is well worth your stop. It doesn't appear to have a name, but it is more than obvious what this establishment offers as you travel by the block long view of a million treasures from the past.



Stop and plan to spend some time perusing this very cool gigantic flea market on your path to the big city. I think there must be one of everything ever created all awaiting you inside and out, some of them undefinable, most useful, and almost all of sentimental value. You'll get to Nice soon enough, and you'll thank me later!


Note, not sure if the included map is accurate. The house market is located on the Col De Tende below Limone before the Tunnel to France, on the left side.

UPdate!
Went back one dark and stormy night and scored a business card, you can now call ahead to see if they are open! (With an Italian friend's help of course!)

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Under Sospel...

8:00 AM
A very dreary day in Sospel, France! The sky was so overcast and dark it was hard to even take photographs! Still Sospel is one very charming little town and worth the effort to get there. It is located in the center of the Alps which means you have to go up to the very top on a narrow road first and than carefully wind your way back down into the valley. (I have no clue how they do this in the dead of winter, roads covered in snow and ice.) Once you get there, you'll find yourself surrounded by history of course, but also cool little shops and restaurants. (Sospel sports a fantastic Thai restaurant that blends the spices of France and Thailand, very unique, very fresh!) They have a chamber of commerce where you can pick up a pamphlet in English with info and a map that guides you to various points of interest. I love the name of this village because for me, the name is a mix of "Spell" and "Suspense." Why, I don't know, just the way the word sounds I guess, but the charm of this itty bitty city plus it's being difficult to get to, definitely reinforced what I was thinking. It's mysterious and charming, well worth the trip!

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Passage Blocking The Sky

8:00 AM
I have to say that I'm a little bit nuts for cemeteries, having an acute appreciation for life, I have a fascination with it's passing. Before I moved here, I used to love to wander the old cemeteries of the Boston area, enchanted and intrigued by the many stones representing life's lived long past. But all that is ruined for me now after having moved to Europe where history is so vast it is difficult to hold in the mind and stone structures tower overhead, visual monuments of passage blocking the sky.
I'm ashamed to say I've forgotten which cemetery this is. Somewhere near Alba in Italy it's on the main road, it is newer than most but nevertheless still is quite impressive. People here of course, think I am crazy for toting a camera to a cemetery, but are really very tolerant of this nutty American. I try to look like I had my camera  "accidentally" on my person as I make a sudden stop to visit a relative during a busy day, but I'm probably not fooling anyone because I always accidentally have it, busy day or no....

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Chestnuts Roasting On An Open Fire..

12:00 PM
Sure Americans are nuts about Chestnuts, we have a song about em after all, but the people of Cuneo love them so much that they celebrate them with a 3 day festival! Literally called, you guessed it, The Chestnut Festival, the main roads get closed down to traffic and pretty white matching booths line the streets on either side like parked cars. Nestled inside the booths are various delectable displays of different types of  regional foods, salami, cheese, sweets and of course personal versions of roasted chestnuts from producers located throughout the entire region of Piemonte, The festival itself features traditional song and dance from the past and a roll of open fire chestnut roasters that send a smoky nutty perfume through he air. My  favorite event is the chocolate fair, where artists recreate imaginary scenes in chocolate. The designs can be huge, sometimes extraordinary and extremely elaborate. The photo above is a harvest scene created completely in yummy chocolate(I have to keep repeating it because I find it hard to believe myself, how on earth do they do that?!) from flowers to barrels. It is so beautifully exact that it would be a shame to eat it, as a matter of face it would be almost impossible to eat...
Well  
almost...,
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Art Ruins

5:39 AM
Very strange little town on the top of a.., well it's in between a hill and a small mountain. Not easy to walk up without a lot of effort, but not quite as impressive as say a ride up to Pikes Peak in Colorado. The town is called Bussana Vecchia and is literally a place taken over by artists, and only artists, after a quake destroyed it in the 18 hundreds. It is located outside of San Remo, and is absolutely a must see as the artists moved into he rubble and did what artists normally do, made it quirky and eccentric! Even this cat looks cool and artistic, laying there, not a care, sleeping all wrapped up in that fishing net. Anyway, I always think of places in terms of if I could actually live there, and I could, I have no problem imagining my art gallery set up in this charming little place, but...
Well the earthquake ruins makes me feel like the ground is going to move again.., probably right after I set up my little art gallery..

Here's their site in Italian, (google translate, google translate hint hint) Bussana Vecchia
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Too Charming, Even The Photo!

8:57 AM
Okay, so I moved across the world, started a blog, and immediately stopped writing because I was tremendously overwhelmed by the whole experience! Family, new culture, new language and absolutely nothing made sense. Every day was not only one day at a time, but almost one moment at a time. Two years later I've recovered somewhat, but now I am on the verge of returning home after all the struggle.
Still I took some great photos though!
I've decided to do a bit less writing and a lot more photography sharing as I took an incredible amount of photos and photos capture the feel of my life way better than my writing ever did.
This fantastic place is Menton, France. This photo is of the older part of the city. I love the romantic feel of this place, and could definitely live here, but my husband is Italian, so I'm stuck in Italy. Sounds tragic doesn't it?
If you'd like to read my first few posts you can find them here: The Reluctant Expat
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San Lorenzo, Cuneo, Italy
No I'm not mad in my pic, instead my profile photo shows me laughing my head off, (Yup, that's the way I look when I'm having a great time!) although my artistic alter ego Nima Benoir, is a bit more serious. I'm an expat to Italy, living in a small town in the north. Where ever I live or travel, I like to explore the details of a place, what's different from my norm? What do I recognize, learn how the place ticks so to speak. Outlandr is about the tiny details of living a long way from the normal comfort zone. New culture, new ideas, resulting in a re-dimensioning of self. Oh yeah, I'm a virtual world junkie, (hence my other blog..) designing products, art, furniture, and other things for those of us who reside in a universe of the mind, or the metaverse, if you will.
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