Ricci Bag!
This was my 2012 Christmas present! It's a bag, bought in Cuneo under the portegi, some little store on Corso Nice. I fell in love with it mainly because although it IS an animal purse, (I've always admired them but never owned one, their always a bit too much in my mind.) it isn't obviously an animal purse. This one kinds of hides it's little metal face away until someone finally notices it, only than do I hear the oohs and ahhs. In other words, it looks like an ordinary purse until you really look at it. It's a Ricci, hedgehog in English which are of course native to Northern Italy. Now I'm pretty sure this was not made here in Italy, but the Italians thought it was cool enough to offer in their stores, so good enough for me!
It's actually a pretty big bag that can hold lots of daily items or maybe a few of it's live brothern inside. What do you think? Could you carry this off? The spikes are kind of cool too....
Back to Window Treatments, Part 2
So, to continue on with the Italian idea of door and window treatments, my last discussion being about Tapparelle a couple of posts back, let me give you an idea of how we do our inside window treatments.
You will see curtains like rods that mount on the outside of the wall so that the curtains hang over and completely cover and hiding doors and windows, but usually you will see a simple set up like this.
Tipically you'll have very thin and short curtain rods that mount on the door frame above the door panel itself. Here I have to different ones together to create a two toned effect. What you are looking at is the standard size for Italian construction in apartments and small homes. So the curtain sizes come standard as well, although you may have to cut the length some times, the width is always the same.
This is my son's bedroom, don't ask about the barbeque bomb.., sigh
The little dots on the curtains, inventions I love, are simply flat disks of fake marble in white. On the backs of these disks are magnets and a length of ribbon connects the two together. You put one magnet on the back of your curtain, the other on the front and let the curtain fall and drape as you like. Because of these doors and of course the terraces beyond, an Italian home is always light and breezy, well on warm days that is!
Here's a pic of the little magnetized ribbon disk that holds our curtains so perfectly!
A word about the door mechanism itself as you are probably wondering how the heck do these things lock.
The handle itself twists 360 forcing a bar located inside the door up or down, oped or closed.
The bar slides up into a top piece mounted on the door frame and the door is officially locked. It seals very well too preventing drafts and chills. You can see the tiny curtain rod as well, just mounted on an L hook.
And there you have it! Brilliant, charming Italian door and window treatments! I think we need them, AND the terraces, in the US too.
Tranne Te
One thing that's really very cool here in Italy is that on the local music channels they show the top hits from the UK, France Spain and America as well as the Italian top ten. (In the US we typically only get our own or the UK's top ten, Unless of course some foreign movie is a hit and we get a video from its sound track, oh Gangam Style, no explanation for that one.) I adore that you get to see how other countries do rap/pop. One popular rapper is Fabri Fibra and I've included his song Tranne Te, Rap Futuristico, so you can get the feel of Italian chart music for yourself. Everyone is listening to it.., well everyone but you that is. <-Tranne Te!
Rap Futuristico A B
Martha Stewart Would Be Pleased! Or Glomorous Gift Giving, Italian Style
This post was suppose to be about window treatments as a follow up to my description of Taparelli, but since it's Christmas and wonderfuly wrapped presents like these start showing up from friends and family, I thought I muse a bit about fabulous wrappings instead.
Italy is known the world over for it's class and sophistication, but when Christmas rolls around you really get chance to see and appreciate it! Streets take on the warm glow of artfully placed lights and displays and once gifts are purchased, again by default, (so many things here are just standard!) every store where you shop will offer you the option to have your gifts wrapped. And boy, do the know how to wrap em, Martha Stewart would be pleased!
On this gift the paper used is not really "paper" but is a cross between paper and cloth, almost a handmade paper which makes it strong and difficult to tear yet still useable to create curled ribbon accents. Large wooden buttons, trim and gold frosted scatted leaves finish the look of the package. Presents end up looking sophisticated, unique and exciting, ready to pass on to that special someone. I think the most impressive thing about these wrappings in general, is the use of what I think of as "gut feeling artistry" a kind of built in intuitive design. Accents are inventive and randomly placed versus a rhyme or reason, aside (I feel like Americans think more in a "linear" more precise kind of way for example.) from an obvious use of color coordination. All this being said though, it is difficult here to go out and find your own unique paper and as a matter of fact would probably require a specialty store to score it in, a pain if you'd like to try a hand at DIY classy wrap design, but which during the Christmas season in the US, you can readily find in just about any where.
Still it's Christmas time and the moment someone hands you a gift wrapped with creativity like this, you feel a deep appreciation for calling this place home not only during the holiday season, but all year round. Italians do Christmas, like just about everything else, with style. This sense of style reflected in everything from clothing to cars, is the reason all the world is nuts about Italy and why after visiting Italy, you secretly hope that some of that style, rubs off on you!
Buon Natalie Everybody!
The Details of Living As An Ourlander! Window Treatments, Part 1
A rather mundane looking picture, but I'm all about the details and this photo really illustrates what I'm trying to describe to you my fellow future traveler! In Northern Italy, (because I'm not sure about the South,) most of the buildings have this type of window shutter by default. They are called Tapparelle and basically they reside inside the walls and are raised or lowered with a rubber rope for want of a better word. They are heavy and extremely sturdy, you need some muscle to use them. When I first arrived in Italy I hated these things because when they are lowered the outside of the buildings really look like nothing, or in short, just plain ugly.
But over time I really began to appreciate the usefulness of the Tapparelle. In the winter they all but shut out the cold. As you can see they form a pretty tight seal around the doors and windows. (This one is not lowered all the way.) In the summer they serve the same function in reverse; they cut down the heat inside.
They can also look very romantic. If you don't extend them down to the ground or floor the slats stay about a half an inch apart, insuring privacy but also letting out the soft glow from your lamps. From the outside it looks as though you have blinds, but more awesome blinds than usual.
So I've come to love them now and will miss them deeply when we leave, yes I'm afraid we've thrown in the towel, mostly due to the economy here at the moment, that is making it impossible to work. But more on that later...
In the end, these awful looking shutters have become a great source of comfort for me. When the wind howls, it actually sounds like it is howling outside of my home, in back of the shutters instead of whistling though, This of course adds to the feeling of coziness and safety inside my apartment, (nothing can get in!) and warm too, as a bonus!
Here's another photo from the inside. Although they build the Tapparelle into the walls for the outside of the window, it is traditional on the inside to have some type of window treatments or curtains. Here in my living room, you see the window Tapparella about a quarter of the way down, and of course the one in the door is closed completely..
Practically zombie proof!
Rarest On Earth? Guess Where?
In our meanderings, we came across a church in Cap Ferrat, France. We had to stop after having glimpsed this enormous statue next to it in the distance while driving up a windy road. It's just incredible! Next to the stature is my son, who is staring up at it. You can see the height by using him as a comparison!
As all art European, the detail is just stunning but it was the sheer size of it that left us in awe!
The statue is of the Madonna and Child and is located inside of St. Hospice. We stepped inside the church next to it to see if we could learn about this super-sized icon and heard several voices chanting in unison. Not wanting to intrude, (actually it was more like the chant reminded us vaguely of a horror film where things escalate very quickly when there's chanting involved...) so we quickly left.
We'd originally come to visit Eze, a small medieval town that is now home to many artisans. Being December however, most of the artisans were gone, closed down for the season.
Sigh..
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But we weren't disappointed because we discovered something we'd never expected or even guessed we'd find in France; a large garden, a garden dedicated only to cactus!
This garden houses some of the rarest cacti on earth. It was such a treat to explore! Little pathways circle up and up until you finally reach the top where you can look down at not only all the cactus plants, but the entire sea view and local areas. (On a clear day, you can see all the way to Nice!)
All in all it was a nice little day trip, and thanks to the season very quiet, no crowds to fight.
It costs €3.00 to get into the cactus museum, which is worth it just for the majestic photos you'll take.
Eze is just outside of Monaco. Above it actually, very easy to find on your map
The statue is located on Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. Here are the directions from the Wiki, as we stumbled upon the lovely lady and her child by accident!
On Cap Ferrat, just behind the town, go right up the lane from La Madone. At the end, turn right and follow the road up to the chapel.
Here's the link for the Wiki on Cap Ferrat.
Bonsai, The Universe Explained!
If you are crazy about Bonsai, this is the place for you!
Located just outside of Bussana Vechia, the International Artists Village salvaged from an village destroyed in an earthquake, is this huge warehouse simply called as far as I can tell, "Bonsai." Here they've created bonsai with what seems like every plant known to man and each and every one of these miniature landscapes are exquisite! I read that they have over 10 thousand different bonsai plants and I believe that number is accurate. As an eye witness, I can say for a fact that this warehouse stretches forever, seemingly without end. The place, with bonsai after bonsai, is absolutely stunning and of course I had to tell you about it, even their site is striking! Bonsai (the entire store) will take your breathe away and stop your heart with it's beauty. You stroll along the isle, stopping at each plant along the way to take in it's uniqueness. Each bonsai evokes it's own mini universal story, complete with past and present, and you get lost inside it's tale. Be prepared to spend a LOT of time there, imagining each small bonsai world in detail.
I can't say enough about this place. Just go, it's well worth the trip!
Here is their webpage:
Bonsai Center Of Valter Frediani
Here is the contact information. I'm sure since Bussana itself is a major tourist destination, they will speak some English. Bussana is located just outside of San Remo, Italy.
Bonsai Valter Frediani
Road Bussana, 102-18038 BUSSANA SAN REMO - LOCATION BUSSANA OLD - Liguria - ITALY
Tel: +39 0184510638 - Fax +39 1782235297 - Mobile: +39 3383069462 - frediani.bonsai @ tiscali.it - www.fredianibonsai.it
THE TUNNEL STORY, 15 Minutes To Green
Head In Hands, biker enjoys 15 minutes of pure waiting misery at the Col De Tende Tunnel, France
On the French side, pictured above, there is a station that appears to hold round the clock, fire "type" men, who live there. If you suddenly find yourself in trouble, there's instant help available which is a comfort on those cold dark nights at the top of this high pass in the Alps. But the unique attraction at the entrance to this tunnel happens after dark. If you find yourself traveling up through this pass after the sun sets, be sure and bring some food. As you sit in your car waiting for the light to change you'll be greeted by a skulk of foxes. That's right, very cute, very cuddly and very clever foxes will suddenly appear and sit by the side of your car where they will wait patiently for you to well.., feed them.
Being particularly smart, these little guys have us all figured out, wait at the light looking adorable and of course hungry and eventually one of the humans will feed you.
The small animals roam freely between car and truck and pose for photos while showing absolutely no fear of the people making baby noises at them and snapping photos. When the light changes, they run to the side of the road, sit down, (and I mean literally sit down, I've seen em!) and wait again for the next red light and a new batch of travelers. It is very charming, and makes that 15 minutes seem to almost fly by..,
well.., for them..
Despairing driver enjoys 15 minutes of pure waiting misery at the Colle Di Tenda Tunnel, Italy
On the Italian side, they offer a helipad, although I've never actually seen a helicopter there, still, it's great if you need a quick medical emergency exit and there is of course, a bar where you can drink your Italian espresso and chat with fellow travelers while waiting for that 15 minute light to change to green, damn.
The charm here is in the food, espresso and the words of interesting people. Sip your cafe while checking out the uber fantastic motor bikes parked along side the road. The bar, a cozy little place that sits on the edge of the roadway, (it's almost at the top of the alps, so the bar literally sits on a precipice.) offers every necessity from warmth in the winter, to ice cream when it's hot.
So there you have it, entertainment on both sides. Which makes this adventure kind of cool, except that it's forced upon you..,
for 15 minutes!
Why is there a wait? I have no clue! When I used to come through here 14 years ago or more, they not only stamped your passport to cross between countries, (back than we actually had bragging rights thanks to country stamps in our passports.) but the the tunnel itself, had two lanes, so there was no wait aside from the guard stamping your passport, which never took 15 minutes.
I heard they were going to build a new road and a new tunnel, which is why they cut it down to one lane and installed a couple of lights at each end, but I've seen no sign of that new road or of, you know, actual construction.
Oh and did I mention, that this pass closes down? Sometimes, when it's not even snowing, meaning it closes for no apparent reason. Also, heads up, be careful of late night travel through this pass because many times they decide to shut the tunnel itself down at 10:00 PM. Why? Maybe., zombies?
Anyway, it's Europe, so you gotta love it. Grit your teeth and enjoy that hot chocolate, or feed the foxes and WAIT. I'm sure there's a game on your phone if the foxes don't show and the bar is closed for.., well it's Italy, it might just be closed. Anyway, you'll have lots of time to "level up" your game or get up close and personal with your iPhone.
They say patience is a virtue and you'll learn to be patient as a fox, although the motorcyclist above, just about ran out of his, on this charming high mountain pass!
Oh The Weather Inside Is Frightful...WHA?!
Noooooo! It's HERE AGAIN!
Although the snow brings it's tranquility of silent beauty to lay across the land while decorating the Alps in fluffy fantasy. I can't help but dread it.
Because it also brings the bitter cold. Jack Frost lives not only outside, but also inside my house.
We spent our last winter here with hot water bottles, (that sometimes break open in your bed in the middle of the night..sigh) wearing bulky sweaters, hats, arm warmers, leg warmers and stockings under our pants. All of these things worn of course when we step outside the door, but also inside our home, while eating dinner, watching TV etc. Last winter there were many nights when I just slept in my clothes I was so cold!
If your home is larger than say, a studio, 300-450 square feet, it's going to be COLD inside of it. Fuel costs are outrageously high and it is impossible to heat your entire space to comfortable temperatures.
Cozy warm homes are few and far between, and seem to be the luxury of wealthy people, the exception rather than the rule for the average person. And it is not just houses, it's car dealerships, warehouses, supermarkets, all larger buildings are under heated, and generally have no built in heating system at all! It is quite common to see car salesmen wearing their parkas and scarves, inside the building. You won't see people lingering in shops, warm escapes to spend an afternoon in. Even the malls are open. The leisurely shopping experience doesn't exist and in general, the population spends a great deal of time fighting the flu.
Fireplaces are a necessity here but not many places come equipped with them, which leaves me puzzled as to Italy's architectural history, why aren't there fireplaces or wood stoves in every abode since heating costs seem to have always been a problem?
Now I shouldn't include all of Italy here because it seems as if my town has a unique history; it was burned to the ground 3 times by the Nazi's. Most if not all of the building's are new, created just after the second world war. Perhaps winters were milder then and homes did not require wood stoves or fireplaces, so they were not included in new structural designs. Nevertheless, you would think at this point you'd begin to see built in non gas/electric heating in apartments and houses. Also, a warm place is enticing. If I have to spend an afternoon in a store because it is warmer there than own my house, (insert swear words) chances are I will buy something from said store too.
Forgive me for sounding a bit ignorant and I'm sure I sound awfully American, but damn, and not so grateful to live in Italy when winter comes and
it's HERE AGAIN.
Those winter blues, and they're bitter cold,
The thought of spending it freezing once more forces me to become irrational and throw my annual tantrum which of course I had to share with you!
Cuneo 2011
